A guide to Torridon - Part 1

Torridon is somewhat of a siren call to hikers, climbers and general fans of the outdoors. Situated on the west coast of Scotland some 90 minutes from Inverness, the area is home to some of the finest munros in Scotland and is a playground for anyone that relishes being outdoors. The winding glen road snakes along the valley floor with the soaring peaks of Benin Eighe, Liathach and Benin Alligin looming high above.

Over the next few weeks, I’ll be publishing a series of articles about the area featuring the best adventures in the area. I’ve spent a huge amount of time in the area over the past few years, both for work and leisure and have been lucky enough to explore extensively so this, is my guide to Torridon.

The Torridon Hills are considered to be some of the best mountains in Scotland; strung out between Loch Maree and Loch Torridon, the group consists of 8 mountains with three classified as Munros.

Slioch

Distance: 21km

Ascent: 1223m

Time: 8 hours in good conditions

Starting at the eastern end of the group stands Slioch; an imposing mountain with unparalleled views over the fisherfield forest to the east. Climbing Slioch is perhaps the longest day of all the hills but does include a lengthy walk in along the loch side but elevation is comparable to the other Munros.

The walk starts in the car park at Incheril on the outskirts of Kinlochewe (Grid ref NH 03769 62383) and begins with a 4km walk along the loch side. The terrain is easy going but could be waterlogged after rain. After crossing a small burn at NH 01223 65643, take the path heading north east and begin climbing.

The views back over Loch Maree towards Benin Eighe are exceptional and only improve as altitude is gained. The next 2.5km can only be described as a slog, following the trail of a burn skywards. Around 7km there is a brig moment of respite as you cross an exposed plateau, it’s here the views to the north open up revealing the Fisherfield Forest and An Teallach in the distance. The next kilometre is incredibly steep and slow going, the trail is sometimes tricky to find but just keep heading up and you’ll pick it up again. It’s not hugely technical but care needs to be taken over the loose ground; navigation skills in poor weather will be essential as there are a number of terraces with sheer drops to navigate around.

All of the climbing is complete from here and you can enjoy the spectacular views in all directions. An easy ridge walk joins up the suits of Slioch and Sugar Tuill Bhain and the feeling of remoteness is exceptional as the wilderness stretches as far as the eye can see.

The descent off the second peak is hard going as large boulders litter the route and the trail is non existent for most of the descent. In good weather you’ll be able to see the junction where you turned off on the ascent (NH 01877 67440) so aim for that. In reduced visibility, the ability to take a bearing here will be paramount.

Small burns litter the plateau and it took some wiggling to find a suitable crossing point but son enough the trails join up and you’re on the homeward leg. It’s simply a case of retracing your steps back to the car park from this point.

It might not have ether same legendary status as the other Torriodn hills but Slioch is a hike that will leave a lasting impression. The views need to be earned but they are expecional when they do come and the feeling of remoteness is something that can be tricky to find with the other hills.

Beinn Eighe

Distance: 22km

Ascent: 1116m

Time: 9 Hours in good conditions

Being Eighe translates to ‘The Grey One’ in Gaelic and it’s easy to see why, the quartzite peaks offer a stark contrast to the surrounding hills. It’s also the biggest of the group in terms of size, the Beinn Eighe range extends from the shores of Loch Maree to almost halfway don the glen.

There are a number of routes on the mountain, but the one described here is the most popular and in my opinion, the most spectacular.

This walk starts at the car park (NG 95824 56827) that is home to Callum the Deer, a particularly tame stag that has made it his home. Unlike Slioch, this hike starts uphill almost straight away. The trail is well maintained and easy to follow so progress is swift; heading between the mountains of Benin Eighe and Liathach you really do feel small. The roar of stags can often be heard echoing off the rocks as you head out into the wilderness.

At 3.1km a series of stepping stones cross a burn which in spate conditions require care to cross. Some 1.4km later at NG 93454 59398, the trail forks and we need to take the trail heading north around the end of being Eighe. The left hand trap heads round the back of Liathach but thats a walk for another time.

The trail has been relentlessly uphill since the start and that theme continues but the views more than make up for it, stretching across miles of emptiness but that views only get better from here. Heading around the western flank of the mountain, the trail climbs up to Loch Coire Mhic Fhearchair which is one of the most spectacular sights in Scotland. Sitting some 600m above sea level, a reflection of the Triple Butress of Being Eighe can be seen in the loch on still days. Crossing the burn from the loch to the eastern edge of the loch, the trail heads into a seemingly impenetrable wall of rock.

The final 200m of ascent onto the ridgeline are fairly technical with a good head for height required as scree has covered the path and I found it easier to scramble up the exposed rock on the left hand side of the shute. Topping out of this climb reveals the rets of the days objectives. I chose to head north from the top out to bag the peak of Ruadh-stac Mor which while isn’t the most interacting of climbs, it offers wonderful views.

The remainder of the hike isn’t particularly technical, in high winds it can be a slog up to the summit of Spidean Coire nan Clach but the views to the south offer a welcome distraction.

The descent off the mountain is steep and can be loose depending on the line taken but it is manageable and nothing compared to the climb up to the ridgeline. Once back at the road, there is around 3km back along the glen to the start point.

In the next article, we’ll cover the other 2 Munros in Torridon, Benin Alligin and Liathach.